MARIANAS by Bibi van der Zee published on 2 July in the British Spectator.
At last, after many years of questing, I have had the perfect lunch. On
holiday in South Africa, and alone for the first time since our honeymoon
back in the pre-baby mists of time, we found our way to the tiny but famous Marianas, where they serve only lunch, and that just four times a week.
Peter, husband of the eponymous chef, greeted us like old friends and
ushered us to a little table, wreathed round by grape vines and anemones,
and looking down over the garden, through the vegetable plot, and up to
purple mountains that drowse behind Stanford.
We ordered wine by the glass, and the first sip of Hermanuspietersfontein
Sauvignon Blanc actually brought tears to my eyes. Peter brought home-made bread and talked us through the day’s menu, local foods all cooked with Mariana’s own twist of humour, some classical style and a subtle hand with ingredients. Starters were barley salad, springbok rillette, pear salad or gruyère tart, followed by pickled fish, confit de canard with lentils, apricots and honey, springbok pie, oink nek or skaap and dinges (’sheep with two teeth - lamb but slightly older, has a bit more flavour,’ explained Peter).
My pickled yellowtail fish in a cold curry sauce was tangy and wonderful,
while Mike’s tender oink nek (deboned neck of pork) came in a sea of buttery gravy. Full of giggly happiness and wriggling our toes in the sun, we ended our meal with a shared glass of sparkling wine with Peter and Mariana, and my favourite sort of rambling amiable political conversation. It’s an odd feeling to know you have actually had the perfect lunch. The quest for the perfect dinner, however, continues.
Since her return, Bibi has been drinking nothing but South African wine.

Far from being a sleepy village, there are always plenty of things to do in Stanford. You could join the local Quiz night, aptly named “Think and Drink” at the Stanford Art Cafe on Thursday 2 July. The popular Paprika restaurant has re-opened under new management, and has exciting new menus for breakfast, lunch and supper.

Or you could explore your creative side, and join in on a Life Drawing class, run by Nikki Miles every Monday evening from 6 - 8pm at Stanford Galleries.

The library is buzzing, with loads of activities for the children during the holidays - and while they’re busying themselves there, pop into the newly opened Beauty Spot for a treatment.