MARIANAS by Bibi van der Zee published on 2 July in the British Spectator.
At last, after many years of questing, I have had the perfect lunch. On
holiday in South Africa, and alone for the first time since our honeymoon
back in the pre-baby mists of time, we found our way to the tiny but famous Marianas, where they serve only lunch, and that just four times a week.
Peter, husband of the eponymous chef, greeted us like old friends and
ushered us to a little table, wreathed round by grape vines and anemones,
and looking down over the garden, through the vegetable plot, and up to
purple mountains that drowse behind Stanford.
We ordered wine by the glass, and the first sip of Hermanuspietersfontein
Sauvignon Blanc actually brought tears to my eyes. Peter brought home-made bread and talked us through the day’s menu, local foods all cooked with Mariana’s own twist of humour, some classical style and a subtle hand with ingredients. Starters were barley salad, springbok rillette, pear salad or gruyère tart, followed by pickled fish, confit de canard with lentils, apricots and honey, springbok pie, oink nek or skaap and dinges (’sheep with two teeth - lamb but slightly older, has a bit more flavour,’ explained Peter).
My pickled yellowtail fish in a cold curry sauce was tangy and wonderful,
while Mike’s tender oink nek (deboned neck of pork) came in a sea of buttery gravy. Full of giggly happiness and wriggling our toes in the sun, we ended our meal with a shared glass of sparkling wine with Peter and Mariana, and my favourite sort of rambling amiable political conversation. It’s an odd feeling to know you have actually had the perfect lunch. The quest for the perfect dinner, however, continues.
Since her return, Bibi has been drinking nothing but South African wine.

It seems that the answer to the Cape winter blues is to have a festival. Hot on the heels of the news of the ‘Fees van die Ganse’ in Gansbaai this weekend, the locals are gearing up for another flurry of weekend activity. This time in the French corner of the Cape, Franschhoek, at the Bastille Festival,  also on the weekend of July 11 and 12.

220 years ago, the French people celebrated their liberation after the storming of the Bastille the previous year. This great party went on for four days in the Champs de Mars at the festival called the ‘Journee des brouettes’ - day of the wheelbarrows.

Today, the local festival celebrates Franschhoek’s centuries-old French Huguenot heritage with a wonderful feast of food, wine and entertainment. The “Long Walk” has become a feature of the festival, and pays homage to Nelson Mandela, and his own unique vision of “Liberte, egalite, fraternite”. 

This Gourmet Capital of the Cape is just a pleasant drive away from our own village and Gourmet Centre, along a wonderfully scenic route which takes you past the impressive Theewaterskloof Dam and over the Franschhoek Pass.  The organisers are promising lots to see and do, and lots of yummy things to eat and drink, with the focal point in the Bastille Food and Wine Marquee.

 Apart from the gastronomic indulgences, there is a lot more on offer for the whole family. The  galleries, boutiques, crafts shops and food emporiums will be dressed up to the nines and draped in French apparel. Entertainment ranges from a French Film Festival at Le Quartier’s Screening Room, to boules (Petanque), a chefs and waiters race, street soccer, a barrel-rolling contest and fly-fishing competitions. 

 C’est la vie!