MARIANAS by Bibi van der Zee published on 2 July in the British Spectator.
At last, after many years of questing, I have had the perfect lunch. On
holiday in South Africa, and alone for the first time since our honeymoon
back in the pre-baby mists of time, we found our way to the tiny but famous Marianas, where they serve only lunch, and that just four times a week.
Peter, husband of the eponymous chef, greeted us like old friends and
ushered us to a little table, wreathed round by grape vines and anemones,
and looking down over the garden, through the vegetable plot, and up to
purple mountains that drowse behind Stanford.
We ordered wine by the glass, and the first sip of Hermanuspietersfontein
Sauvignon Blanc actually brought tears to my eyes. Peter brought home-made bread and talked us through the day’s menu, local foods all cooked with Mariana’s own twist of humour, some classical style and a subtle hand with ingredients. Starters were barley salad, springbok rillette, pear salad or gruyère tart, followed by pickled fish, confit de canard with lentils, apricots and honey, springbok pie, oink nek or skaap and dinges (’sheep with two teeth - lamb but slightly older, has a bit more flavour,’ explained Peter).
My pickled yellowtail fish in a cold curry sauce was tangy and wonderful,
while Mike’s tender oink nek (deboned neck of pork) came in a sea of buttery gravy. Full of giggly happiness and wriggling our toes in the sun, we ended our meal with a shared glass of sparkling wine with Peter and Mariana, and my favourite sort of rambling amiable political conversation. It’s an odd feeling to know you have actually had the perfect lunch. The quest for the perfect dinner, however, continues.
Since her return, Bibi has been drinking nothing but South African wine.

Stanford welcomes a new chef into their embracing arms; Craig Andersson has recently been appointed to the stately restaurant and manor house, 1892 Stanford Spookhuis at Mosaic Farm. Craig will take on the role as their new executive chef cuisinier. After spending some years in fine dining restaurants in Ireland, he fine tuned his skills at Spier.  He is passionate about making use of the local produce, and what can’t be harvested from the organic kitchen garden, is sourced from Hermanus, or from the boats at Gansbaai Harbour. ”Out here in the country, people savour our food and relish their time; it almost feels like the mountain is protecting us from the harsh reality of life out there. My philosophy: KISS! Keep It Simply Scrumptious.”
As a tribute to the owners, Kathryn and Breese Johnson, who hail from Jack Daniels country, Tennessee, Craig has created a homemade chicken liver pâté infused with Jack Daniels.  And on Saturday August 15 at 6:30 PM, he will be showcasing his Southern inspired food at a whiskey and food pairing  event at Mosaic Farm hosted by Joffy Senekal.